The most obvious method of protecting your saddle is to run a lock through the rails and bike frame. Using a cable lock to secure your bike is a very common method. So, why not use excess slack on the cable by feeding it through the rails at the back of your saddle.
How do I keep my bike seat from moving?
Clean and apply new grease to the seatpost – When we assemble a new bicycle, we apply a thin coat of grease inside the seat tube of the bike frame. This helps the seatpost grip and stay in place. This might sound counter-intuitive; grease is slippery, so wouldn’t that make it slip more? In reality, the grease actually helps the surfaces of the seatpost and seat tube stick together.
It’s kind of like putting sand under your car tires when you’re stuck in the snow. At the same time, the grease prevents corrosion and keeps the seat post from getting permanently stuck in the frame. Periodically, you should remove your seat post from the frame, and wipe the old grease off with a rag.
Insert the rag into the frame with your finger and try (as much as possible) to clean the old grease from the inside of the seat tube as well. Using your finger or a brush, apply a thin coat of new grease to the inside of the seat tube, or the outside of the seatpost.
Re-insert the seat post to your preferred height, and clamp it in place. Use standard bicycle grease if your frame and seatpost are both any kind of metal (steel, aluminum, or titanium). If either your frame or seatpost, or both, are carbon fiber, DO NOT use grease. Instead, use a carbon assembly paste,
This performs the same function as grease, but is specially formulated so that it does not chemically react with the carbon fiber material. Some frame-seatpost combinations might be especially stubborn and prone to slippage. You might even try carbon assembly paste on these even if they are metal.
How do you secure a bike seat to frame?
1. A Small Chain Lock ( Buy Abus ) – Keep your bicycle seat and seatpost safe. I also have my locking Fortified light here that I never have to remove. This small chain lock is the easiest method. You thread the lock through the loops on your saddle to your bike frame, and it essentially keeps your seatpost safe as well.
Why does my bike seat keep falling?
Why does my seatpost keeps slipping? – The main reason for a slipping seatpost is too little friction between the seatpost and seat tube. The first cause is a clamp that isn’t tightened enough. Because of the load on the seat post while cycling, it slowly slips down.
This is a very common issue! The seatpost clamp is the component on your bike that fixes the seat post in your frame. Seatpost clamps come in different diameters and with different closure mechanisms. For example some use a quick-release while others use an hex bolt. If you tighten the seatpost clamp to the manufacturers specification and you still experience a slipping seatpost, you need to increase the friction between the seatpost and tube.
Overtightening the seatpost clamp might harm the components, Always pay attention to the maximum tightening torque. It’s a better option increase the friction between the components by using a Carbon Assembly Paste with micropearls. These micropearls (also called pellets) will add extra friction between your seatpost and tube, making it harder for your seatpost to slip.
Why does my bike seat tilt back and forth?
Seat Sliding Backward or Forward – Having your saddle slide backward and forward is a different issue. This is caused by the saddle rails not having a tight enough fit on the seat post clamp. The first thing to do here is to check for dirt and debris. Remove your saddle and take apart your seat post clamp.
- You’ll want to check both the saddle rails and the seat post clamps.
- Are they dirty? If so, try some soap and water and brush with an old toothbrush until it’s clean again.
- If you still don’t have any luck and the screw is tight, one solution is to cut an old inner tube into strips and wrap it around the seat rails.
Some riders say this method will last “virtually forever”. Though I’m not sure how long it was last on your bike, it can be a quick and easy fix. And as an extra bonus, you may get slightly less vibration.
How does a bike seat clamp work?
O.k., you’ve been riding this bike for a few days. Maybe you bought it new, maybe it’s used, maybe you stole it from your brother. But you notice over the course of a few rides that the seat post tends to creep down. “What the %$#&!?” you say to yourself and maybe a bunch of other folks as you begin to get a little hot under the hood.
Why is this thing slipping?!” Why do seat posts slip? The fundamentals: A post that fits a frame well slides smoothly into the seat tube of the frame without any lateral play (side to side movement). This means that the seat post outer diameter needs to be very close to the inner diameter of the frame’s seat tube.
The seat tube of the frame has a short slot cut lengthwise at the top of the tube. The seat post clamp goes around the top of the tube. When the clamp bolt is tightened, the frame material flexes slightly (the slot allows this flex to occur) and tightens against the seat post.
This, of course, is what holds your post in place. If the clamp can’t tighten enough for some reason, your post will slip under load. Expanding on the basics: Manufacturer specifications for any component, be it a seat tube diameter, seat post diameter, or what have you, allow a small margin of error.
This means that the seat tube of even a new frame may have an actual inner diameter a bit larger or smaller (we’re talking 10ths to 100ths of a millimeter here) than it lists in its specs. Same goes for the post. So if you have a frame that has a seat tube hole slightly larger than spec.
For example: 27.2mm spec, 27.29mm actual) and the seat post is slightly smaller than spec., the post will be likely to slip. Assuming both tube and post are within manufacturer margin of variance, this won’t be considered a warranty. In fact, some post manufacturers (we’re not mentioning any names) actually machine their posts smaller than their printed size to accommodate seat tube variance (printed 27.2mm, actual 27.1mm or thereabouts, for instance).
These posts are always more likely to slip, even though the post may be brand new, expensive, and marked at the correct size for your frame. Up to this point we are working under the assumption that everything -post, frame, etc.- is new. If your frame or post or both are used, this variance may be further amplified by wear and tear.
Adjusting post height many times over the years can wear down the frame and post a bit, particularly if you do not clean them both regularly (and who does?). Grit and grime tend to act like sandpaper, especially in such tight places. Again, we’re talking about very small amounts of material, but enough to possibly cause some slippage.
Or perhaps someone who owned the bike before you Flex-honed the seat tube and it is now a bit larger than it started out. Sometimes a bad post or frame is pretty obvious; in other cases, you may not be able to tell with the naked eye. Secondary causes of slippage: Other, less likely culprits behind post slip include extreme over-greasing of the post, particularly using a Teflon lube on the post, heavy rider weight, and exceptionally rough trails.
What size seatpost clamp do I need?
Seat Clamps – Seat clamps for road and MTB bikes fulfil the same function as BMX seat clamps and are typically made of the same material (aluminium), often CNC-machined and anodised for extra resistance to damage. However there are a couple of considerations to take into account when replacing a seatclamp, the foremost being internal diameter and quick-release or bolt closure.
• Diameter: The internal diameter of the seat clamp must correspond with the external diameter of the seat tube – too big, and the seat post may move in the frame, with the risk of cracking; too small and the collar can’t fit on the top of the tube (and you might damage your frame in trying to force it on).
There are five standard seat tube diameters on the market: 28.6mm, 30.0mm, 31.8mm, 34.9mm, and 36.4mm, so once you know the size of your seat tube (measure with a calipers or check your manufacturer’s specifications) make sure to buy a seatclamp that matches.
- Note: The seat clamp diameter needs to match the diameter of your seat tube rather than your seatpost, which is a little smaller.
- For example, a 27.2mm seatpost (a size commonly found on road bikes) fits inside a 28.6mm diameter seat tube, so it’s a 28.6mm clamp you need.
- Quick-release closure: A quick-release or QR seatclamp uses a small lever to close the seatclamp collar, as with QR wheel skewers allowing the mechanism to be easily opened and re-closed without the necessity for tools.
This is useful for riders who wish to frequently raise or lower their saddles, as with MTB bikers who might want to drop the saddle for better body positioning on a technical descent, and raise it again for pedalling efficiency when going back up the hill.
However QR seatclamps have fallen a little out of favour in recent years, owing in part to their sometimes less-secure grip (making post slippage a problem) and also to their propensity for being inadvertently knocked by knees. Additionally, many commuters have long bemoaned the fact that QR seatclamps make saddles an easy target for thieves.
The advent of dropper posts for MTB riders has also eroded their appeal. • Bolt closure: These use a simple, short bolt with a hexagonal head to close the seatclamp collar. Bolted collars have long been favoured by gravity riders for their secure grip but are also now more often seen on road bikes as the advantages of a rock-solid grip (once the optimum saddle height has been set) outweigh those of the QR collar.
Why is my bike seat tilted?
Why Do People Tilt Their Saddle Too Far Up? – The most common reason people tilt the saddle angle too far up is to keep from sliding forwards. It can be a vicious cycle, you tilt the saddle down to alleviate pressure on your groin, but then you start to slide forward too much and so you raise it too much buy a proper fitting saddle and only make adjustments 1 degree at a time.
Should I tilt my saddle forward?
Saddle adjusted correctly? – Your saddle should be at a neutral angle, so you’re sitting on the middle portion, not sliding forwards on the nose or backwards off the rear of the saddle. The best way to achieve this is to use a spirit level. If you don’t have one lying around, find a broom and use the length of the handle to exaggerate the slant of your saddle.
When it comes to making your adjustments, you’re aiming for a flat saddle. However, it’s worth noting that some women do feel more comfortable if the nose is ever so slightly slanted down. It’s ok to allow a very slight tilt, but if you find you’re tipping the nose right down to achieve comfort, you probably need to find a different saddle that’s more suited to you.
Remember that changing the angle of the saddle could affect the height. Refresh yourself on how to set saddle height with our guide. If you’re suffering from repeated niggles, then book yourself in for a bike fit with a professional.
What angle should a bike seat be at?
The correct saddle angle is much more important than most cyclists realize. For example, lower back pains are a common issue for cyclists, and an incorrect saddle angle is often (part of) the problem. The guideline for the angle of your saddle is between 0 degrees (horizontal) and 4 degrees nose down.
Should you grease your seatpost?
Greasing your seatpost will prevent problems like this: ‘Removing Seat Post rusted into downtube’. Don’t use chain oil, grease is what you want. As whatsisname pointed out, all fasteners on your bike should be lightly greased. This is what keeps them from corroding and seizing over time, becoming a real pain to remove.
How do you fix a slipping seatpost?
You might have noticed from the dates on some of the comments, that last week’s Tech Talk titled Preventing Slipping Seat Posts, was actually a rerun. That’s because I was off camping (close to some nice riding, too). One of the comments to this “old” story was from reader Greg Titus, who asked – not long after the article appeared over a year ago, “Why is this article entitled “Preventing Slipping Seat Posts” when it doesn’t discuss that issue at all, and is about determining proper seat height?” “This article isn’t about seat post slipping, it’s 95 percent about finding/setting proper seat height.
- My concerns touch on multiple slipping issues.
- For example, on our bikes with metal frames/posts that we ride in wet conditions (road, touring and mountain bikes) I keep the posts lightly lubed and regularly cleaned and properly tightened, but still get some slipping, occasional twisting.
- On our carbon bikes, with carbon posts and metal posts, I use carbon paste on the latter, and still get slipping on the latter.
Thanks for any help.” Thanks for the heads-up, G men! I apologize for leaving you (and anyone else) hanging and will focus on seatpost slipping today. First I want to give props to Pete Royer. His comment was a tip for marking seat posts so that you can tell at a glance if they are slipping.
- Pete says, “I use black silicone to mark seat posts as it is waterproof and IMHO looks better than electrical tape.” There are two main ways seatposts slip as shown in the photo.
- They can slip down and into the frame,
- And t he seat clamp can slip causing the seat to tilt up or down,
- Both are bad because they negatively affect your riding position.
If you don’t notice and keep riding, you might develop a “mystery” injury until you realize what happened and fix it. Round seat posts can also twist in the frame, That’s another kind of slipping (not shown in my photo). One of the advantages of bicycles with non-round seat posts (think aero posts in aero frames) is that they can’t twist.
Also, they are self aligning unlike round posts that are tricky to center perfectly. First, if there’s any chance that the seat post in the bike was changed from original, it’s a good idea to make 100 percent certain that the seat post is the correct size for the frame. Because, seat posts come in many diameters varying only by fractions of a mm.
It’s pretty common to see seat posts one size too small that will never tighten fully. If the seat post is the correct size and slipping down, next check that the tightening hardware on the frame or the collar are operating properly to tighten the post.
- The threads should be in perfect condition and it should be easy to tighten and torque the bolt to the recommended tightness for your frame and seatpost.
- More on torqueing next.) This hardware often gets used a lot so it’s common to see issues.
- Inspect parts carefully and replace anything damaged.
- Make sure threads are greased.
Collars can get knocked out of position. They need to be fully seated on the frame and the slot for the bolt is usually aligned with the slot in the frame.
Why do I keep sliding forward on my bicycle seat?
Problem: Saddle nose tilted down – Symptoms: A saddle angled downwards can cause knee pain and sore wrists and forearms. When the nose of your saddle is lower than the back, the tilt can cause problems. With the nose slanted forwards, your pelvis tilts meaning your hips will slide to the front of the saddle.
- Being forced to the nose of the saddle while pedalling can cause knee pain (though there are of course other potential causes ).
- The forward position means you exert more pressure on the pedals to compensate for not having the correct weight on the saddle.
- Sliding forward also means you’re sat on the narrowest section.
With so little support; pressure builds, causing numbness around your delicate parts. If you have pain in your hands and forearms, it could be that you are applying too much pressure on your handlebars. This is most likely the result of being pushed forward on your saddle.